As most of you know, I spent my post-college/pre-marriage years living and working in New York City. I was lucky enough to move in with three strangers that ended up becoming three of my closest friends. We had (for NYC standards) a pretty sweet setup. We lived on West 50th Street just west of Times Square near the Hudson River which was convenient to Central Park, Grand Central, the Subway, and basically anywhere else you could hope to explore in the Big Apple.
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| This is a photo of the front of my old apartment building |
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| These are my three roommates and me at an outdoor restaurant a few blocks from our apartment! |
There are some days that I miss New York and being able to step outside my apartment and feel like the possibilities were endless. I think the thing I love the most about this city is that every neighborhood has it's own personality. You can literally walk 10 minutes or get off one Subway stop away from where you just were and feel like you are in a completely different city.
Since leaving, I have been contemplating compiling a post of the places in New York that I love the most and have some of my most cherished memories. I have talked to several people who have visited New York and hated it, I think most of them were just going to the wrong places. Lately, I have a few friends that have taken trips and asked for recommendations, so I decided to write this post about where to go if you want to fall in love with New York.
Take my advice, I worked in hotels and if people asked me for advice on where to go or what to do my answer would be the same to them... Don't spend your money on the bus tours, get away from Times Square, and go to the places that are the reason that people who live here love it!
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| I took this photo from Top of the Rock, it's a beautiful view but a pretty expensive elevator ride |
First Things First!!
Getting around New York
Many people can find big cities like NYC very confusing to navigate, especially for people that are from say... Oklahoma (by the way this post is written partially for my friend Hunter who happens to be from there, so please don't take offense!) so let me let you in on a little secret New York is one big grid system...
Streets stretch across the city from East to West... like lines of latitude on the Earth (thanks to my friend Chris for making sure I clear this up!) While Avenues span from North to South like lines of Longitude. When walking across the city from East to West, 1st Ave is all the way on the East Side and 11th Ave is all the way on the West Side (6th Ave marks the middle, so anything East is considered East Side and West is considered West Side) while 125th Street is way North at the top of Central Park and 1st Ave is way south and goes across what are known as the East and West Village. So, if you need to go West, just make sure the Avenues are getting larger in numbers, and if you need to go south just make sure the Streets are getting smaller in numbers!
Downtown (lower than 1st Ave) gets confusing because the streets start having names and aren't in a grid anymore, but luckily most people have smartphones now! (I have no idea what we did before those)
Taxis: Hailing taxis is considered an art form by some, so let me give you a few tips so you don't look like an idiot waving your hands around in the middle of the street...
- Yellow taxis that have the numbers on top that light up are the way to go. Sometimes you will see Lincoln Town cars stop and try to see if you need a ride... these are known as gypsy cabs and they are a rip off. The yellow cabs are regulated by the city and can't just make up what they're charging you... and most now accept credit and debit cards!
- If a the taxi does not have the numbers at the top lit up, it either means it's off duty or someone is already in it so don't bother chasing it down the street
- When telling the driver where you want to go, give them the intersection, not the address... and start with the Street (North to South) followed by the Avenue (East to West) For example when I used to get a cab home, I would say (50th Street between 10th and 11th).. and guess what! I always made it home!
Subways: Honestly, I love the Subways. They are easy once you get the hang of them and A LOT less expensive than taxis. If you plan on using the subway while you're in NYC it's most cost effective to buy the all day or all week pass depending how long you are in town, and it works on the buses too.
There is a great website online, they also have a smart phone app called
HopStop which allows you to enter where you want to go, and what method you wish to use to get there and voila! It gives you all the directions you need for making your way around New York's underground without carrying that big bulky map!
A few things I would like to warn you about so that you learn from my subway mistakes:
- The subway has what are called lines and within those lines are three separate trains... for example the Blue Line has the A, C, and E trains, these lines go to the same stops for the most part, but will veer away from each other at some point so make sure you have the correct color as well as number if HopStop or a map tells you that you can ONLY take one or two specific trains there.
- Each Subway line also has express and local trains, which means that some trains might look like they are following the same path, but they might not stop at every stop so make sure you get on a local one if you need to.
- Each line goes two directions so make sure you get on the one heading the direction you need to go. Usually the train will say that it is going towards it's final destination. For example, I needed to take the L train which goes between West 14th Street and somewhere in Brooklyn.. I needed to get to 14th Street and First Ave, I got on the train at Union Square and I heard the announcement say that I was heading towards Brooklyn, and I knew I didn't want to go to Brooklyn so I got off... Long story short, I was on the right train going the right direction, I just had to get off two stops before Brooklyn, so before you step on the train, take a look at where you are, where you need to get off, and where the last stop is in that direction and you should be golden!
- If you get lost in the Subway, don't panic. Just get on a train headed towards Midtown and get off at one of the following stations (because they have the most other trains that you can use to transfer where you need to go): Times Square, Union Square, Grand Central, Penn Station/34th Street.
Walking: walking is a great way to get around the city, but just remember it is a pretty big place and you don't want your dogs to be barking after half a day, so wear some comfortable (yet stylish) shoes, and don't be afraid to use other forms of transportation!
Pedi-cabs, Horse-drawn Carriages ect.: take a horse-drawn carriage ride through Central Park if you want, or hitch a ride from one of those guys riding the bicycle cab if it's going to enhance your New York Experience, but if it won't, skip it. They're really expensive.
Midtown and Central Park
Midtown is known by most people as the heart of New York City. It is home to Times Square, Grand Central, the New York Public Library, Rockefeller Center, Central Park, the Empire State Building and me! (for a few years)
Central Park
Everyone who goes to New York goes to Central Park. I was blessed enough to walk through it every day on my way to work. While you're there, here are a few of my favorite places in the park:
Central Park Zoo- My
job was only 3 blocks from the entrance to the zoo located on the southeast side of Central Park, when the weather was warm, I would spend all of my lunch breaks on a bench here. The zoo is a great place to go, even if you don't decide to go inside walk up from the Southeast corner of Central Park, next to the iconic Plaza Hotel and through the entrance area. It's a great place to people watch, and if you come around lunch time, they have some really unique food trucks!
Central Park Boathouse: After you walk through the zoo, keep walking North and a little bit West through Central Park until you get to the Central Park Boathouse. This is where all of those movies set in New York are shot with people in rowboats. This is one of my favorite restaurants, I came here on my birthday with my parents one year, and also took Brendan here after he graduated West Point. It's pretty pricey to eat in the Lakeside Restaurant, but they also have some express cafes too, and if you're not hungry it's worth it just to sit on a bench and take in the scene.
Ramble Stone Arch: Keep moving West through Central Park and you will see beautiful fields and statues, but one of my favorite things to just take in is the Ramble Stone Arch located near 77th Street on the North Side of the lake.
After this, I would consider walking down the West Side of Central Park going South. At the Southwest Corner, you will see the Columbus Circle.
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| I took this one day on my walk home from work of the Southeast end of Central Park |
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| Columbus Circle in the distance from the middle of Central Park |
Times Square/Hell's Kitchen
This area is where I lived, but I generally avoided the area known as "Times Square" because it's always crowded and unless you want to see a Broadway show or go to Toys R Us or the giant M&M store, there is nothing too exciting going on. Luckily, if you walk just two blocks West, you will find yourself on 9th ave, which has some of the best yet least expensive restaurants in New York City.
TKTS Booth: If you are dying to go to a Broadway show while you're in town, but aren't too picky about which one you go to, I suggest going over to the TKTS booth in the middle of Times Square, they offer tickets for same day shows at 50% off there and you can find some great deals for some of the most popular shows, just have a few in your head that you think you'd like to go to. The great thing about seeing a show on Broadway is that each theater only does one play so the sets are awesome, and the theaters are so small that there aren't really any bad seats!
Ziggolini's Pizza Bar: Ok, so this is not where you want to come if you want "traditional New York Style Pizza" because the pizza here is even better! It's thin crust, and cooked to perfection every time. Brendan and I discovered this gem located on 9th Ave between 46th and 47th Street when we were dating, and it has become a borderline obsession for us when we are able to make it back to New York. When we go we split their Diavola pizza (it's a little spicy so if you don't like it, pick something else), wash it down with a bottle of Riesling (this is the ONLY place I can convince Brendan to split some wine with me) and finish it off with their desert pizza consisting of Nutella as the sauce and marshmallows as the topping. I am dying for this meal as I type it!
Tout Va Bien: This is a charming French Restaurant located on a charming street right smack dab in the middle of Manhattan. It's on 51st st between 8th and 9th ave. I discovered it because it was on my walk home from work, I walked by it for 6 months before I decided to test it out... and MAN those 6 months were wasted. The inside has checkered table clothes that bring me right back to when I studied abroad in Paris, and if that isn't enough of a flashback, the majority of patrons the few times I've gone have also been conversing in french. The food here is great classic French food, personally I like escargots.. but if you don't there are tons of other things to try... if you are a seafood person, their Moules Marinière (Mussels) are the bomb! Brendan and I also happened to go to dinner here to celebrate the day we got engaged!
Ink 48 Press Lounge: Once you get a little tired of the hustle and bustle of the theater crowds, make your way West to the Hudson River. If you want to grab a cocktail with a great view or if you're looking for somewhere to go out at night and get a little dressed up, Ink 48 is a hotel on 49th and 11th Ave with an amazing rooftop bar that gives you great views of Manhattan from every direction as well as the Hudson River. I would suggest going there at night and seeing everything lit up.
Hudson River Park: The area known as the Hudson River Park Starts around 56th street and goes all the way downtown, in this area check out Pier 84 and 86. Pier 86 is where you will find the battleship Intrepid (Military and Spouses get in free!) and Pier 84 has some tables, along with some restaurants that serve snacks and often have live music. It's a nice place to unwind for a few minutes on the river. I used to love walking around this area and watching the boats go by!
Midtown East
I worked in Midtown East over by the UN for about a year, and this is definitely one of the parts of the city that tourists LOVE to go to! It's home to Rockefeller Center, Radio City Music Hall, 5th Ave and all of the amazing shopping (if nothing else walk by the windows of Saks 5th Ave on 50th Street... the windows themselves are works of art), Grand Central Terminal, the New York Public Library and Bryant Park. Personally, I didn't spend a ton of time over here except for walking to and from work, but I do have a few favorite areas.
Upstairs at the Kimberly: Located on the 30th floor rooftop of the Kimberly Hotel on East 50th Street between Lexington and 3rd Ave, this is another great place to get a little dressed up and grab a drink or some appetizers and look at the skyline. I suggest coming here at night to see the city lit up (a few drinks or some appetizers is a lot less expensive and more fun than a ticket for an elevator ride to the Top of the Rock or Empire State Building)... this place also serves a great brunch.
Bryant Park: This is probably hands down my favorite place in New York. It's located directly behind the Library, and less than 3 blocks from Times Square. This place is an oasis, when I would go there, it seemed like every time I stepped off the sidewalk and into the park, the world went quiet. At Christmas time, I love to go there and watch people skate on the rink and go through the shops that they set up, I love it so much more than Rockefeller Center, and in the summertime, it's a great place to grab a bench or table and sit and read, and if you're thirsty or hungry the Bryant Park Cafe located on the back porch of the Library is great. I went here all the time with a friend and we would get a pitcher of margaritas or sangria and some appetizers. I love their watermelon skewers which have lime juice squeezed over them and some chili powder... I actually make an adaptation of them at a lot of our summer parties. If you don't go anywhere else in New York that I recommend,
COME HERE.
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| This is the ice rink known as "The Pond" located at Bryant Park in the middle of the Winter. It's even more beautiful during the summertime |
Downtown
South of Midtown, the price to rent an apartment skyrockets as the neighborhoods get quainter. I didn't spend as much time in this area as I wish I did. As funny as it seems to people that don't live in New York, you tend to get kind of stuck in your neighborhood because there is so much to do that you sometimes don't venture out into other areas as much. I have to say though, every time I did come down to this area, I wondered why I didn't come here as much and then immediately wished I was a millionaire and could live there!
Chelsea/Greenwich Village
This area is basically from 30th Street down to Houston (pronounced HOUSE-TON) Street west of 6th Ave. There are plenty of other "sub neighborhoods depending on who you ask, but I am just going to stick with these for the sake of not confusing you. Walk around these neighborhoods, they are beautiful and have a ton of character... and if you are a Sex and the City fan, although her apartment was technically supposed to be on the Upper East Side, the exterior that they used to film it was located in the West Village on 66 Perry Street (Between Bleecker and West 4th).
Highline Park: This little gem is a park built on an old historic freight train line and is full of art and flowers. On Tuesdays they have free tours during from 6:30-7:30 followed by free stargazing from 7:30-9:30
Chelsea Market: If you're a foodie, take the time to walk through Chelsea Market located on West 15th Street between 9th and 10th ave. They have tons of great little restaurants and shops and its a great place to walk around and get some souvenirs that your other foodie friends might appreciate more than a snow-globe!
The Frying Pan: This is another one of my favorite places, whenever friends came to visit me in the summer we would always head over to this casual restaurant and bar located on the Hudson River at West 26th Street. It's basically an old barge turned bar that serves drinks, burgers and food like that. It's a great place to sit around with friends and laugh... if you want to work up a sweat beforehand, there are kayak rentals next to it and you can kayak around the Hudson!
Washington Square Park: While you're in this area, walk through Greenwich Village and over to Washington Square Park... I have seen people with pianos just playing on a random Saturday and tons of other interesting things.
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| Like I said, It's not unusual for a Baby Grand Piano to be played in the middle of Washington Square Park! |
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| This is a view from the deck of the Frying Pan |
Union Square/East Village/ Lower East Side
If I lived in New York again, this might be the area I want to live in! I love this area and how much there is going on... even at 4 in the morning!
Union Square Farmer Market: if you happen to be in NYC on a Saturday Morning, go to the Union Square Farmers Marker, vendors come in from upstate New York with tons of fresh produce and locally made cheese, bread etc. This is also a great place to find amazing art and paintings. I think that one of the coolest things about New York is the ability to step into a place like this and forget you are in one of the busiest places in the world.
Crocodile Lounge: While you are on 14th Street, head south a few blocks to 1st Ave to Crocodile Lounge. Here you can pretend you are in middle school again and play Skee Ball in the back... they actually have skee ball leagues also. Another perk of this place is the little ticket you get when you order a drink, this ticket gets you free personal size pizza. So if you're looking for a quick snack.. this place is a good pit stop!
Crif Dogs: Okay, I have a confession to make. Hot Dogs are one of my favorite foods. So when I found this place, I was in awe. It's a little hole in the wall on
St. Marks Place (which you should walk around regardless of if you stop here!) which has become one of the meccas for hot dogs in NYC. As if hot dogs were healthy anyways, this place wraps them in bacon and deep fries them. On top of that, they have the best toppings, I recommend the Tsunami Dog which has crushed pineapples, scallions, teryaki sauce and I always add jalapenos. This place also has a secret bar which is located in the back of the telephone booth called
Please Don't Tell, you have to make reservations, and once you get there, go in the booth dial one and wait for someone to answer and let you back. I think it's pretty cool.
10 Degrees Wine Bar: If you don't feel like having hot dogs, but still find yourself strolling on St. Marks Place, stop in 10 Degrees. They have a great list of wines, beers and small plates. Personally I love wine so this was one of my favorite destinations.
Freeman's Restaurant: If you are splurging on a meal, do it here. Freeman's is a little restaurant in the Lower East side, take a cab or else you won't find it and tell him to drop you on Rivington between The Bowery and Chrystie on the right-hand side and you will find it down an alley lit with little white Christmas lights. This place is AMAZING, I get the filet every single time because it's so good. It reminds me of a hunting lodge on the inside, but please, please, please come here for dinner. They don't accept reservations so if you don't mind eating early get here when they open at 6 and then explore the neighborhood once your belly is full of their amazing food! If you don't believe me, just click on their website and tell me that you didn't just fall in love with this place!
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| This is Union Square and those tents are all stands at the Farmer 's Market |
Lower Manhattan
This is code word for the Financial district including the new World Trade Center along with the Brooklyn Bridge area and Seaport. I worked near Wall Street for a short time, and it isn't my favorite part of NYC but it is a destination that most visitors are interested in. The ferries to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty are located at Battery park and are fun, Brendan and I actually took one before I left NYC. Although If I'm in this area, there are a few other places I prefer to go to.
Brooklyn Bridge: I've been over to the Brooklyn Bridge a few times and it's beautiful. If you're looking for a nice walk, you can walk across it. It's a great place to take some photos
South Street Seaport: If I am in this area, my hands down favorite place to go is the South Street Seaport. It is a time warp in the shadows of the sky scrapers. There are great restaurants and great shopping here, but besides that the streets are made of cobblestone, they have old sea vessels and you feel like you just got teleported to a New England fishing town... until you look around and see all the other people! During the summer, New York has a few man made beaches called Water Taxi beaches where they transported sand and have games of volleyball and even pop up mini golf! One of these is located here. There is a ton to do here, and if you are down in Lower Manhattan, do yourself a favor and come here!
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| The Water Taxi Beach at South Street Seaport |
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| The Brooklyn Bridge |
Final notes and advice
These are just a few of my favorite places, I'm sure if you go to these areas you will find some of your own. If you are looking for more organized activities here are some great websites that I used when I lived here that let you know what's going on in NYC weekly:
Restaurant Week
Twice a year, New York has Restaurant Week (which is actually 3 weeks long) where you can make reservations in some great restaurants and get 3 course meals for $35 which is a lot less than they would have been. Click on the
link to see if you will be in town for the next one, because you might be able to dine in style for a fraction of the cost!
I hope this post has been helpful and I hope that if you do get to visit the Big Apple you are better equipped to fall in love with it!
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